The Cliff Ruins of Canyon de Chelly, Arizona Sixteenth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology to the Secretary of the Smithsonian Institution, 1894-95, Government Printing — Reading Notes
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There were but 10 rooms on the ground, in addition to one circular kiva; some of these rooms are too small for habitation, and one of them appears to have been a rectangular kiva. On the same bench, about 100 feet westward, however, there are traces of other rooms, the walls of which were very thin. The cliffs back of the ruin and for 200 feet west of it are covered with pictographs in white and colors.
Near the center of that portion of the ruin shown on the ground plan there is a large room which may have been a rectangular kiva. The walls are over 2 feet thick in the first story, diminishing at the roof level by a step or setback to the ordinary thickness of about a foot. These walls, as usual in such structures, were about 2 feet thick; they are slightly curved, the front wall markedly so, and the interior corners are well rounded. No reason for this curvature is apparent, and it is certainly not dictated by the occurrence of the rock over which the wall is built, as only the point of this rock comes through the wall in the western side of the front wall. There may have been an opening into the room through the eastern wall connecting it with the room on that side, as the masonry is there broken down; but this is doubtful, as the eastern room itself has no exterior opening. It is more probable that the large room was entered through the roof, for the thin wall of the second story shows in front one side of a well-finished doorway.
Just outside of the heavy front wall there is a round hole in the ground, the remains of a vertical shaft connected with the interior of the room. The hole is about a foot in diameter, and is neatly plastered inside, and appears to have been a chimney or a chimney-like structure such as occur in connection with the kivas in other ruins. It will later be discussed in detail.
The circular kiva occupies the western end of that part of the room shown in the plan. It was 15 feet in diameter, and is exceptionally well built. The wall is standing for about half of its circumference, and was so neatly finished that the interior coating of plaster was apparently omitted. There are no traces of inclosing rectangular walls; the thickness of the kiva walls and the exceptionally large stones used in parts of it suggest that the kiva stood alone. So far as the walls remain standing, an interior bench can be traced, about 2 feet wide and 6 feet below the top of the outside wall. On the southeastern side, in the interior, there is a buttress or projection, which terminates the bench at this point.
The walls between the rectangular room described and the circular kiva are thin and very irregularly laid out. In front of the rectangular room and on the edge of the bench, which is here but a few feet above the talus, a rather heavy wall has been built over the top of a rock, and inside or to the north of it another wall has been placed, hardly 2 feet distant. These walls are connected at the eastern end by a thin cross wall, now but slightly above the ground surface and notched like a doorway. Below the notch a slab of stone has been placed and was apparently used as a step. The purpose of these walls is not clear, but they may have constituted an entrance or passageway to the village. If so, we have here a very efficient defensive expedient and a decided anomaly in cliff-village architecture.
Cosmos Mindeleff's report, originally published in the Sixteenth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology, offers a meticulous survey of cliff ruins in Canyon de Chelly and Canyon del Muerto. The text is driven by systematic classification rather than romantic description, organizing ruins into categories such as "old villages on open sites," "home villages on bottom lands," and "cliff outlooks or farming shelters." Mindeleff's language is consistently technical, focusing on measurable details: the quality of masonry, the presence of plaster or whitewash, the number of stories inferred from cliff marks, and the orientation of rooms relative to talus slopes. The narrative voice is that of a field scientist, grounding each observation in physical evidence and avoiding conjecture about the inhabitants' culture or beliefs.
Precision in Masonry and Materials
Mindeleff's descriptions of masonry are notably precise, often noting the size of stones, the proportion of mortar, and the presence or absence of plaster. For instance, at ruin No. 46, he records that walls on the west side were "composed of large stones laid in plenty of mud mortar and plastered inside and out," while the eastern portion used "small stones, chinked but not plastered." This attention to variation within a single site reveals a methodical approach: each room is assessed individually, and differences in construction are noted without assigning them to different periods or builders unless evidence supports it. The report also remarks on the use of whitewash, as at the "Casa Blanca" in Tseonitsosi canyon, where the white coating extends over a subordinate room, mirroring a similar pattern in De Chelly. Such observations are presented as facts, not as clues to cultural meaning.
Site Selection and Functional Inference
Mindeleff carefully describes the placement of ruins in relation to topography, often noting elevation, access difficulty, and visibility. Ruin No. 46, for example, sits "300 or 400 feet above the bottom" in a cove at the top of the talus, commanding "an extensive outlook over the bottom lands." He explicitly states that these cliff sites were not watchtowers but "places of abode during the harvest season," where workers could keep fields in view. This functional interpretation is grounded in the physical layout: rooms are often entered only through other rooms or the roof, and direct outside openings were not considered necessary. Mindeleff draws a parallel to contemporary practice, noting that such arrangements "are quite as necessary and quite as extensively practiced now as it was formerly." The inference is cautious, limited to what the structures themselves suggest.
Evidence of Later Use and Modification
Throughout the report, Mindeleff acknowledges that ruins have been altered by subsequent occupants, particularly the Navaho. At site No. 46, he notes that the cove "has been used as a sheep close, and doubtless some of the walls have been covered up." He also observes that later additions may have been made by the Navaho, who "used the building material on the ground," resulting in structures that are "merely a cluster of storage cists." This recognition of post-abandonment modification is typical of Mindeleff's empirical stance: he does not assume that all visible features are original. Similarly, he remarks that heavy deposits of sheep dung might conceal traces of a kiva, acknowledging the limits of his observations. The text thus maintains a clear distinction between what can be seen and what can only be inferred.
Readers approaching this report should attend to the interplay between description and classification. Mindeleff's categories—open sites, bottom-land villages, defensive homes, and cliff outlooks—are not rigid but serve as tools for organizing diverse remains. The text rewards careful attention to the plans and figures, which are integral to understanding the spatial relationships he describes. As a work of late-nineteenth-century ethnology, it exemplifies a commitment to empirical detail over narrative speculation, making it a valuable resource for those interested in the material record of the Pueblo region.
Some books feel like standing quietly among old stones. That survey of Canyon de Chelly lingered with me—those precise notes on walls and openings, without any storytelling. It made me think of a calmer companion guide, How to Observe in Archaeology Suggestions for Travellers in the Near and Middle East — A Reader’s Guide, which settles beside it like a gentle hand on a warm ledge.
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