The South Isles of Aran (County Galway) — A Reader’s Guide
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Island of Aran--Galway bay, anciently Lough Lurgan--Population--Religion, etc.--Inishmore, ruins on--Inishmaan, ruins on--Inisheer, ruins on--Mail boat--Hotel--Aran landscape--Flora--Potatoes--Aran wildfowl--Capture of the puffin--Cragsmen--Geology of islands--Limestone terraces--Boulders--Cliffs on islands--Seaweeds--Moving sands--_Pinus maritima_ 1
Monuments of Druidism--Druids--Cairns--Cromlechs--Baal, worship of--Zodiacal rings--Sacred fires--Druidical religion--Sir Edward Coke, on--Groves--Immense fortresses--Dun AEngus--Its situation, dimensions, etc.--Dun Conor--Christian remains--St. Enda, romantic story of--His hapless love--Becomes a monk--Obtains grant of Aran from King of Cashel--St. Brendon--His leaving Aran for countries beyond the Atlantic--Rendered into verse by Denis Florence MacCarthy--St. Columba, his grief at leaving Aran--Rendered into verse by Sir Aubrey De Vere--St. Fursa--Residence in Aran--Pilgrimage to Rome--Buried in Aran--Aran monuments, pagan and Christian, vested in Board of Works--Churches facing the east--The north--Cloghauns--Dwellings of the monks--_Teampul-Chiarain_--_Teampul McDuach_--Holy well--Childless marriages--Description of churches--Lonely lives of the monks--One of the Popes said to be buried in Aran--Ordnance Survey--Its vast stores of learning unprinted 13
Aran, 14th-18th centuries--A.D. 1308. O'Brien, lord of the isles--In consideration of twelve tuns of wine annually engages to protect the trade of Galway--A.D. 1334. Aran plundered by Darcy--A.D. 1400. Henry IV. gives license to certain persons to attack rebels in Aran--A.D. 1485. Franciscan monastery built--A.D. 1537. Suppression of religious houses--A.D. 1560. Shipwreck of Teige O'Brien, lord of the isles--A.D. 1570. Mortgage of the islands--A.D. 1579. Mayor of Galway appointed admiral of Galway bay, including Aran--1586. O'Brien expulsed from Aran by the O'Flaherties--1587. Queen Elizabeth grants islands to Sir John Rawson--1588. Corporation of Galway petition in favour of O'Briens--Annals, 1618, 1641, 1645, 1651--Surrender of the islands to the Commander-in-Chief of the Parliamentary forces--Annals, 1653, 1670, 1687, 1691, 1700, 1746, case of _Mayor of Galway_ v. _Digby_--1754, 1786. Earldom of Aran--1857 31
Noble character of Aranite peasantry--Letters, 1841, by Dr. Petrie; 1852, by Sir Francis Head, K.C.B.; 1875, by Frank Thorpe Porter, Esq., B.L.; 1886, by Mr. R. F. Mullery, clerk of Galway Union; by Philip Lyster, Esq., R.M., B.L.--Rev. Fathers O'Donohoe, P.P., and Waters, C.C.--_Sta viator_--Isle of O'Brazil--Gerald Griffin's poem on 52
Healthful islands--Old age in--Land Commission in Aran--Aran fisheries--Letters, 1886, from Sir Thomas F. Brady, fishery commissioner, on; from C.T. Redington, J.P., D.L., on public works in islands; from Rev. William Killride, on employment and on timber--"Many places in the islands covered with trees" fifty years ago--Poverty of fishermen--Baltimore fisheries--Baroness Burdett-Coutts--Irish Reproductive Loan Fund--Bounties given by Irish Parliament, in 1787, to encourage deep sea fisheries--Trawling 65
Re-afforesting Aran--Dr. Lyons--Dermot O'Conor Donelan, J.P.--Forest industries in Germany--Supports 300,000 families--Paper from young timber, etc. 82
Superstitions of the grove--Concerning the oak--The ash--The mountain ash--The aspen--The pine--The holly--The ivy--The hawthorn--The blackthorn--The rose--The fern--The fairy flax--The hazel 88
Conversant with the O'Briens--Bryan Boroimhe--His descendants Kings of Thomond--and their descendants Lords of Inchiquin, junior branch of Kings of Thomond--Marshal MacMahon--Also junior branch, O'Briens of Ballynalacken 105
Statistics of Aran 110
THE SOUTH ISLES OF ARAN.
"Oh, Aranmore! loved Aranmore, How oft I dream of thee, And of those days when by thy shore I wandered young and free; Full many a path I've tried since then, Through pleasure's flowery maze, But ne'er could find the bliss again I felt in those sweet days."
[Sidenote: POPE GREGORY THE GREAT]
Oliver J. Burke's The South Isles of Aran (County Galway) opens with a dedication that reveals its origin: a visit in July 1886 connected with the Land Commission, followed by a period of illness that delayed the arranging of his notes. The book is thus a hybrid—part official report, part personal record. Burke's voice is that of a barrister and antiquarian, but the text is punctuated by voices of others: a resident magistrate's letter describing a justice who held court 'the first fine day,' and a poor-law inspector's dry statistics on rates and illegitimacy. This polyphony gives the work an unexpected texture, moving between the measured tone of a government survey and the intimacy of local anecdote.
A Voice That Shifts Between Ledger and Legend
Burke's narrative voice is not uniform. In the opening chapters, he writes as a compiler of facts: population figures, lists of ruins, geological notes on 'limestone terraces' and 'moving sands.' The prose is efficient, almost telegraphic. But when he turns to the islanders' customs, the tone relaxes. Describing the local shoe—the 'pampoody'—he notes it is made of 'untanned cow-hide with the hairy side out' and declares, with a hint of dry humour, that it is 'the most unpicturesque foot-dress in Europe.' The same chapter includes a magistrate's anecdote about a defendant who, handed a committal warrant, 'would, without the intervention of police or any one else, take the warrant, travel at his own expense to Galway, and deliver himself up.' These shifts are abrupt: from the impersonal to the particular, from data to story.
Pace and the Accumulation of Detail
The book's pace is uneven, and deliberately so. Burke often slows to a catalogue: chapter headings list 'Cairns—Cromlechs—Baal, worship of—Zodiacal rings—Sacred fires.' Inside, he moves from one monument to the next with little transition. Yet when he reproduces a letter or a report, the rhythm changes. The poor-law inspector's testimony, for instance, is a block of bureaucratic prose—'The average rate for the last ten years was three shillings in the pound'—that contrasts with the magistrate's colloquial recollection of O'Flaherty, who 'ruled as a king.' This alternation between dry enumeration and vivid anecdote creates a reading experience that is part reference work, part oral history. Burke does not smooth these transitions; he lets the documents speak in their own registers.
Recurring Details: The Land, the Seaweed, and the Shoes
Certain details recur, anchoring the text in the physical realities of island life. The seaweed dispute appears twice: once in the magistrate's letter as a case 'of alleged stealing of seaweed in some bona-fide dispute as to the ownership,' and again in the poor-law inspector's report. The pampoody is described in a paragraph that lingers on its construction—'stitched down the instep to the toe'—and its effect on the wearer's gait: 'an elasticity of step and an erect and noble bearing.' These repeated motifs—land quarrels, seaweed rights, handmade footwear—give the book a coherence that its sometimes scattered structure lacks. They are the threads that tie Burke's miscellaneous evidence to the daily lives of the islanders.
Readers should approach The South Isles of Aran not as a continuous narrative but as a mosaic. Burke's method is to assemble documents, observations, and historical notes, leaving the reader to trace connections between the geological description of limestone terraces and the magistrate's story of a self-surrendering defendant. Pay attention to the moments when the authorial voice gives way to another speaker—those are where the texture of island life emerges most sharply.
That rainy afternoon, Burke’s account of the Aran islanders making do with their “pampoodies” stayed with me longer than his magistrate’s summons. Their quiet, unrecorded labour felt like the real story, tucked between official lines. Later, I found myself reaching for Women's Work — Key Ideas to Explore, and the same patient, invisible hands seemed to appear everywhere.
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